Transmission Repair Locations
As automatic transmissions become more efficient, the demand for manual transmissions has decreased. However, manual transmission still hold a place and some people as a personal preference would choose the manual transmission over the automatic. Reasons for the continued use of manual transmission might be that they are less expensive to maintain, often times less expensive to repair and many believe more reliable with less moving parts.
With this said, there are fewer and fewer shops in Tempe, AZ who understand the older technology. As simplistic as they may seem, because of the lack of frequency in which shops work on manual transmissions, they often miss-diagnosed in which the customer spends money needlessly.
What Are the Signs of Manual Transmission Problems?
Manual transmissions are designed to operate smoothly and efficiently. Although fairly basic in design, like with anything mechanical, there can be component failures. Most manual transmission problems start small and produce these types of symptoms:
- Hard Shifting: Manual transmissions are designed to produce smooth, easy, controlled shifting between gear sets. When the clutch is activated during a manual transmission gear shift, the gears are designed to glide freely and smoothly from one gear to the next. If you cannot shift easily or if excessive force is needed to shift, that's a sure sign of a problem. In more severe cases, the ability to shift may not be possible at all.
- Gear Noise: When manual transmissions are functioning properly and efficiently they rarely make noise -- at least excessive noise. A manual transmission that makes noise -- either during shifting or as the car is being driven at a constant speed -- is a sign that something within the transmission is not quite right. Although the problems may require only slight adjustment or repair, a noisy manual transmission is one that needs evaluation by a qualified transmission diagnostician. If your car makes grinding or scraping sounds during gear shifting, don’t ignore it, it needs attention immediately! Ignoring it will only cost you more money.
- Gear Disengagement or Popping Out of Gear: Manual transmission gear disengagement occurs when a manual transmission gear moves or slips out of place. This condition causes a transmission freewheeling, which seriously affects your vehicle's operation. A manual transmission gear that slips out of place from a fixed gear position into neutral unassisted is a common symptom of a manual transmission problem.
- Hard Clutch Pedal: A vehicle clutch is a very important part of manual transmission function. It’s what connects the engine to the transmission. A healthy clutch mechanism allows for the smooth, efficient shifting of the manual transmission. A clutch that is hard to press down on is a sign of a problem within the clutch, the clutch linkage or clutch hydraulics. With hard clutch pedal what you don’t realize is that more than likely the clutch is not disengaging all the way, which can lead to premature transmission failure. Hard clutch is a sign that the clutch may very well need attention. Click here for more information about clutch repair at Tri-City Transmission.
- Soft Clutch Pedal: Just as a hard-to-engage clutch assembly is a common symptom of a manual transmission problem, a clutch that is too easy to press down on -- or one that simply lacks enough tension is a sign of a possible problem within the clutch. Although a soft clutch is easy on your calf it sometimes is caused by clutch pressure plate that is worn out or simply a clutch that needs adjustment. In either case hard or soft clutch pedal needs to be looked into.
While we all correlate clutch to the manual transmission, it is not generally integral to the manual transmission itself. It is simply the point of connection between the engine and transmission. The clutch allows you to modulate this connection with your foot. It is what allows the engine to be running while the tires are stopped. Knowing all this, If the clutch is not operating properly, the transmission cannot operate properly. More times then not, there is where the misdiagnosis will happen. Someone will replace a transmission, when only a simple clutch adjustment or repair was needed.
Here are a few more Manual Transmission Facts:
Manual transmissions were the very first in existence and have evolved through many stages over the years. Today, they are used in every type of vehicle. Manual transmissions started off as three-speed and advanced to four, five, and even six-speed transmissions in cars. Trucks have advanced to transmissions with dual ranges from low to high in each gear by using two different-sized reduction drive gears.
Service intervals for manual transmissions & transaxle are 30,000 miles. Factory recommendations for service vary depending on vehicle make, model and fluid type, so consult the factory manual provided with your vehicle or call for specific details. Tow vehicles will require more frequent service.
Tempe
Simply put, the transfer case in a four-wheel drive (4WD) or all wheel drive (AWD) vehicle is the component which allows the engine power to be directed to all four tires. Transfer cases are generally mounted just outside or next to the transmission. A traditional vehicle generally has a drive shaft that delivers power to just two of the wheels. The transfer case adds and connects a second drive shaft to the second pair of tires.
Transfer Case of Yesterday (Traditional Truck Type)
The transfer case of yesterday is a big, cast iron, crude, heavy gear box that bolted on the back of the transmission that used a set of gears to connect the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft. They were generally controlled by a large shifter sticking out of the floor board and you also manually locked the hubs at both front wheels. You shifted into four wheel drive only on an as need basis. In older four wheel drives traditionally the rear wheels were the primary drive tires and the front wheel only came on board when you went through this ritual.
Modern Transfer Case of Today (Automatic Engaging Truck Type)
The modern transfer case is much lighter, built of generally aluminum or magnesium. They use a chain to connect the front and the rear drive shafts in the more common truck type configuration where the rear wheels are the primary source of delivering power to the pavement. What is significantly different is the methods of control and the addition of an electrically controlled clutch. No longer do you need to go through the ritual listed above, the vehicles computer monitors for wheel slip and when it registers wheel slip, it signals an electric motor mounted on the transfer case which actuates and connects the front and rear drive shafts through a clutching system. This is much easier to operate but does present challenges when it malfunctions. Although it sounds fairly simply, a good portion of our repair industry does not know how to diagnose these issues. The consumer will purchase a replacement transfer case when all they needed was a transfer case actuator motor, control computer, new tires or …. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Modern Transfer Case (Manual Engaging Truck Type)
Much like described above, with the exception of the transfer case not utilizing a clutching mechanism and engagement manually happening through a button or shift lever. Much like people preferring a “land line” over a cell phone, we find some people prefer the manual type operation where they feel some control. Maybe this is because it seems more objective or concrete in it operation. Either way, both have pros and cons and it is simply personal preference.
Modern Transfer Case (Full Time All Wheel Drive, Car or Front Wheel Drive SUV)
Quickly becoming very common since more SUV are moving to front wheel drive and more cars are utilizing all wheel drive. Different from both of the above, this is where the primary source of placing power to the pavement is through the front wheels and the rear wheels are secondary. The transfer case is generally much smaller and has no clutching mechanism. The manufacturer of the vehicle has generally moved the clutching mechanism in most cases to the rear differential. The transfer case in this application is mounted to either the right or the left side of the transmission between the drive axle and the front wheel. Sitting by itself, it looks more like a differential than a transfer case but is still described as a transfer case because of its function. Like the other automatic engaging transfer cases, tire replacement should happen as a complete set of four tires unlike the two at a time people are accustomed to. We see customers daily that have to buy a new transfer case because they did not follow this rule. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Traditional Type)
- Difficulty Shifting Into Different Ranges (4-Low, 4-High, 2wd)
- Noisy In All Gears
- Jumps Out of 4-Low Range or 4-High Range
- Fluid Leaking From Vent or Seals
- “Service four wheel drive light” (usually yellow)
- Vehicle goes completely into neutral while just driving
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Automatic Engaging Type)
- Binding sensation when turning
- Popping noises on acceleration either in a turn or in a straight line
- “Service four wheel drive light” or “all wheel drive light” or “traction control light”
- Vehicle completely goes into neutral while just driving
A frequent transmission miss-diagnosis worth mention is the transmission is rebuilt or replaced, when simply a purse strap got caught on the transfer case shifter pulling the transfer case into neutral when exiting the vehicle. We see this one from time to time. This usually happens to an inexperienced transmission technician and they only figure it out after they have rebuilt or replaced your transmission. The honest one will tell you, the dishonest will simply shift the transfer case back into gear and you get a transmission you didn’t need.
Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!!
The transfer case almost always gets forgotten. People say, “I never use the four wheel drive, what does it need maintenance for?” This is a wives' tale. The transfer case is always rotating and has power or torque going through it. This is regardless or not if you use the four wheel drive. Transfer cases are expensive and you definitely don’t want to buy one because transfer case services are relatively cheap. They usually hold less than two quarts of oil.
The transfer case fluid level & condition should be checked at every regular oil change to make sure it also has plenty lubricant (this is very important, transfer cases hold so little fluid they will run out, even if you never saw a puddle on the ground.
The modern transfer case, especially the type with clutch mechanisms requires more frequent maintenance than a traditional type transfer case.
Specialty or Exotic transfer case fluid is something you need to be aware of. In old days transfer cases were simply filled with gear oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Some mechanics never got the memo from the transfer case manufacturer. We see the wrong fluid in transfer cases daily. Sometimes we catch it when it is already too late and someone has to buy a new transfer case. You need to be aware as a consumer that you are working with a knowledgeable Chandler, AZ repair shop. We can all look the same and sound the same. Even doctors have been known to amputate the wrong limb from time to time.
Simply put, the transfer case in a four-wheel drive (4WD) or all wheel drive (AWD) vehicle is the component which allows the engine power to be directed to all four tires. Transfer cases are generally mounted just outside or next to the transmission. A traditional vehicle generally has a drive shaft that delivers power to just two of the wheels. The transfer case adds and connects a second drive shaft to the second pair of tires.
Transfer Case of Yesterday (Traditional Truck Type)
The transfer case of yesterday is a big, cast iron, crude, heavy gear box that bolted on the back of the transmission that used a set of gears to connect the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft. They were generally controlled by a large shifter sticking out of the floor board and you also manually locked the hubs at both front wheels. You shifted into four wheel drive only on an as need basis. In older four wheel drives traditionally the rear wheels were the primary drive tires and the front wheel only came on board when you went through this ritual.
Modern Transfer Case of Today (Automatic Engaging Truck Type)
The modern transfer case is much lighter, built of generally aluminum or magnesium. They use a chain to connect the front and the rear drive shafts in the more common truck type configuration where the rear wheels are the primary source of delivering power to the pavement. What is significantly different is the methods of control and the addition of an electrically controlled clutch. No longer do you need to go through the ritual listed above, the vehicles computer monitors for wheel slip and when it registers wheel slip, it signals an electric motor mounted on the transfer case which actuates and connects the front and rear drive shafts through a clutching system. This is much easier to operate but does present challenges when it malfunctions. Although it sounds fairly simply, a good portion of our repair industry does not know how to diagnose these issues. The consumer will purchase a replacement transfer case when all they needed was a transfer case actuator motor, control computer, new tires or …. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Modern Transfer Case (Manual Engaging Truck Type)
Much like described above, with the exception of the transfer case not utilizing a clutching mechanism and engagement manually happening through a button or shift lever. Much like people preferring a “land line” over a cell phone, we find some people prefer the manual type operation where they feel some control. Maybe this is because it seems more objective or concrete in it operation. Either way, both have pros and cons and it is simply personal preference.
Modern Transfer Case (Full Time All Wheel Drive, Car or Front Wheel Drive SUV)
Quickly becoming very common since more SUV are moving to front wheel drive and more cars are utilizing all wheel drive. Different from both of the above, this is where the primary source of placing power to the pavement is through the front wheels and the rear wheels are secondary. The transfer case is generally much smaller and has no clutching mechanism. The manufacturer of the vehicle has generally moved the clutching mechanism in most cases to the rear differential. The transfer case in this application is mounted to either the right or the left side of the transmission between the drive axle and the front wheel. Sitting by itself, it looks more like a differential than a transfer case but is still described as a transfer case because of its function. Like the other automatic engaging transfer cases, tire replacement should happen as a complete set of four tires unlike the two at a time people are accustomed to. We see customers daily that have to buy a new transfer case because they did not follow this rule. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Traditional Type)
- Difficulty Shifting Into Different Ranges (4-Low, 4-High, 2wd)
- Noisy In All Gears
- Jumps Out of 4-Low Range or 4-High Range
- Fluid Leaking From Vent or Seals
- “Service four wheel drive light” (usually yellow)
- Vehicle goes completely into neutral while just driving
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Automatic Engaging Type)
- Binding sensation when turning
- Popping noises on acceleration either in a turn or in a straight line
- “Service four wheel drive light” or “all wheel drive light” or “traction control light”
- Vehicle completely goes into neutral while just driving
A frequent transmission miss-diagnosis worth mention is the transmission is rebuilt or replaced, when simply a purse strap got caught on the transfer case shifter pulling the transfer case into neutral when exiting the vehicle. We see this one from time to time. This usually happens to an inexperienced transmission technician and they only figure it out after they have rebuilt or replaced your transmission. The honest one will tell you, the dishonest will simply shift the transfer case back into gear and you get a transmission you didn’t need.
Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!!
The transfer case almost always gets forgotten. People say, “I never use the four wheel drive, what does it need maintenance for?” This is a wives' tale. The transfer case is always rotating and has power or torque going through it. This is regardless or not if you use the four wheel drive. Transfer cases are expensive and you definitely don’t want to buy one because transfer case services are relatively cheap. They usually hold less than two quarts of oil.
The transfer case fluid level & condition should be checked at every regular oil change to make sure it also has plenty lubricant (this is very important, transfer cases hold so little fluid they will run out, even if you never saw a puddle on the ground.
The modern transfer case, especially the type with clutch mechanisms requires more frequent maintenance than a traditional type transfer case.
Specialty or Exotic transfer case fluid is something you need to be aware of. In old days transfer cases were simply filled with gear oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Some mechanics never got the memo from the transfer case manufacturer. We see the wrong fluid in transfer cases daily. Sometimes we catch it when it is already too late and someone has to buy a new transfer case. You need to be aware as a consumer that you are working with a knowledgeable Gilbert, AZ repair shop. We can all look the same and sound the same. Even doctors have been known to amputate the wrong limb from time to time.
Simply put, the transfer case in a four-wheel drive (4WD) or all wheel drive (AWD) vehicle is the component which allows the engine power to be directed to all four tires. Transfer cases are generally mounted just outside or next to the transmission. A traditional vehicle generally has a drive shaft that delivers power to just two of the wheels. The transfer case adds and connects a second drive shaft to the second pair of tires.
Transfer Case of Yesterday (Traditional Truck Type)
The transfer case of yesterday is a big, cast iron, crude, heavy gear box that bolted on the back of the transmission that used a set of gears to connect the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft. They were generally controlled by a large shifter sticking out of the floor board and you also manually locked the hubs at both front wheels. You shifted into four wheel drive only on an as need basis. In older four wheel drives traditionally the rear wheels were the primary drive tires and the front wheel only came on board when you went through this ritual.
Modern Transfer Case of Today (Automatic Engaging Truck Type)
The modern transfer case is much lighter, built of generally aluminum or magnesium. They use a chain to connect the front and the rear drive shafts in the more common truck type configuration where the rear wheels are the primary source of delivering power to the pavement. What is significantly different is the methods of control and the addition of an electrically controlled clutch. No longer do you need to go through the ritual listed above, the vehicles computer monitors for wheel slip and when it registers wheel slip, it signals an electric motor mounted on the transfer case which actuates and connects the front and rear drive shafts through a clutching system. This is much easier to operate but does present challenges when it malfunctions. Although it sounds fairly simply, a good portion of our repair industry does not know how to diagnose these issues. The consumer will purchase a replacement transfer case when all they needed was a transfer case actuator motor, control computer, new tires or …. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Modern Transfer Case (Manual Engaging Truck Type)
Much like described above, with the exception of the transfer case not utilizing a clutching mechanism and engagement manually happening through a button or shift lever. Much like people preferring a “land line” over a cell phone, we find some people prefer the manual type operation where they feel some control. Maybe this is because it seems more objective or concrete in it operation. Either way, both have pros and cons and it is simply personal preference.
Modern Transfer Case (Full Time All Wheel Drive, Car or Front Wheel Drive SUV)
Quickly becoming very common since more SUV are moving to front wheel drive and more cars are utilizing all wheel drive. Different from both of the above, this is where the primary source of placing power to the pavement is through the front wheels and the rear wheels are secondary. The transfer case is generally much smaller and has no clutching mechanism. The manufacturer of the vehicle has generally moved the clutching mechanism in most cases to the rear differential. The transfer case in this application is mounted to either the right or the left side of the transmission between the drive axle and the front wheel. Sitting by itself, it looks more like a differential than a transfer case but is still described as a transfer case because of its function. Like the other automatic engaging transfer cases, tire replacement should happen as a complete set of four tires unlike the two at a time people are accustomed to. We see customers daily that have to buy a new transfer case because they did not follow this rule. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Traditional Type)
- Difficulty Shifting Into Different Ranges (4-Low, 4-High, 2wd)
- Noisy In All Gears
- Jumps Out of 4-Low Range or 4-High Range
- Fluid Leaking From Vent or Seals
- “Service four wheel drive light” (usually yellow)
- Vehicle goes completely into neutral while just driving
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Automatic Engaging Type)
- Binding sensation when turning
- Popping noises on acceleration either in a turn or in a straight line
- “Service four wheel drive light” or “all wheel drive light” or “traction control light”
- Vehicle completely goes into neutral while just driving
A frequent transmission miss-diagnosis worth mention is the transmission is rebuilt or replaced, when simply a purse strap got caught on the transfer case shifter pulling the transfer case into neutral when exiting the vehicle. We see this one from time to time. This usually happens to an inexperienced transmission technician and they only figure it out after they have rebuilt or replaced your transmission. The honest one will tell you, the dishonest will simply shift the transfer case back into gear and you get a transmission you didn’t need.
Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!!
The transfer case almost always gets forgotten. People say, “I never use the four wheel drive, what does it need maintenance for?” This is a wives' tale. The transfer case is always rotating and has power or torque going through it. This is regardless or not if you use the four wheel drive. Transfer cases are expensive and you definitely don’t want to buy one because transfer case services are relatively cheap. They usually hold less than two quarts of oil.
The transfer case fluid level & condition should be checked at every regular oil change to make sure it also has plenty lubricant (this is very important, transfer cases hold so little fluid they will run out, even if you never saw a puddle on the ground.
The modern transfer case, especially the type with clutch mechanisms requires more frequent maintenance than a traditional type transfer case.
Specialty or Exotic transfer case fluid is something you need to be aware of. In old days transfer cases were simply filled with gear oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Some mechanics never got the memo from the transfer case manufacturer. We see the wrong fluid in transfer cases daily. Sometimes we catch it when it is already too late and someone has to buy a new transfer case. You need to be aware as a consumer that you are working with a knowledgeable Glendale, AZ repair shop. We can all look the same and sound the same. Even doctors have been known to amputate the wrong limb from time to time.
Simply put, the transfer case in a four-wheel drive (4WD) or all wheel drive (AWD) vehicle is the component which allows the engine power to be directed to all four tires. Transfer cases are generally mounted just outside or next to the transmission. A traditional vehicle generally has a drive shaft that delivers power to just two of the wheels. The transfer case adds and connects a second drive shaft to the second pair of tires.
Transfer Case of Yesterday (Traditional Truck Type)
The transfer case of yesterday is a big, cast iron, crude, heavy gear box that bolted on the back of the transmission that used a set of gears to connect the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft. They were generally controlled by a large shifter sticking out of the floor board and you also manually locked the hubs at both front wheels. You shifted into four wheel drive only on an as need basis. In older four wheel drives traditionally the rear wheels were the primary drive tires and the front wheel only came on board when you went through this ritual.
Modern Transfer Case of Today (Automatic Engaging Truck Type)
The modern transfer case is much lighter, built of generally aluminum or magnesium. They use a chain to connect the front and the rear drive shafts in the more common truck type configuration where the rear wheels are the primary source of delivering power to the pavement. What is significantly different is the methods of control and the addition of an electrically controlled clutch. No longer do you need to go through the ritual listed above, the vehicles computer monitors for wheel slip and when it registers wheel slip, it signals an electric motor mounted on the transfer case which actuates and connects the front and rear drive shafts through a clutching system. This is much easier to operate but does present challenges when it malfunctions. Although it sounds fairly simply, a good portion of our repair industry does not know how to diagnose these issues. The consumer will purchase a replacement transfer case when all they needed was a transfer case actuator motor, control computer, new tires or …. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Modern Transfer Case (Manual Engaging Truck Type)
Much like described above, with the exception of the transfer case not utilizing a clutching mechanism and engagement manually happening through a button or shift lever. Much like people preferring a “land line” over a cell phone, we find some people prefer the manual type operation where they feel some control. Maybe this is because it seems more objective or concrete in it operation. Either way, both have pros and cons and it is simply personal preference.
Modern Transfer Case (Full Time All Wheel Drive, Car or Front Wheel Drive SUV)
Quickly becoming very common since more SUV are moving to front wheel drive and more cars are utilizing all wheel drive. Different from both of the above, this is where the primary source of placing power to the pavement is through the front wheels and the rear wheels are secondary. The transfer case is generally much smaller and has no clutching mechanism. The manufacturer of the vehicle has generally moved the clutching mechanism in most cases to the rear differential. The transfer case in this application is mounted to either the right or the left side of the transmission between the drive axle and the front wheel. Sitting by itself, it looks more like a differential than a transfer case but is still described as a transfer case because of its function. Like the other automatic engaging transfer cases, tire replacement should happen as a complete set of four tires unlike the two at a time people are accustomed to. We see customers daily that have to buy a new transfer case because they did not follow this rule. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Traditional Type)
- Difficulty Shifting Into Different Ranges (4-Low, 4-High, 2wd)
- Noisy In All Gears
- Jumps Out of 4-Low Range or 4-High Range
- Fluid Leaking From Vent or Seals
- “Service four wheel drive light” (usually yellow)
- Vehicle goes completely into neutral while just driving
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Automatic Engaging Type)
- Binding sensation when turning
- Popping noises on acceleration either in a turn or in a straight line
- “Service four wheel drive light” or “all wheel drive light” or “traction control light”
- Vehicle completely goes into neutral while just driving
A frequent transmission miss-diagnosis worth mention is the transmission is rebuilt or replaced, when simply a purse strap got caught on the transfer case shifter pulling the transfer case into neutral when exiting the vehicle. We see this one from time to time. This usually happens to an inexperienced transmission technician and they only figure it out after they have rebuilt or replaced your transmission. The honest one will tell you, the dishonest will simply shift the transfer case back into gear and you get a transmission you didn’t need.
Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!!
The transfer case almost always gets forgotten. People say, “I never use the four wheel drive, what does it need maintenance for?” This is a wives' tale. The transfer case is always rotating and has power or torque going through it. This is regardless or not if you use the four wheel drive. Transfer cases are expensive and you definitely don’t want to buy one because transfer case services are relatively cheap. They usually hold less than two quarts of oil.
The transfer case fluid level & condition should be checked at every regular oil change to make sure it also has plenty lubricant (this is very important, transfer cases hold so little fluid they will run out, even if you never saw a puddle on the ground.
The modern transfer case, especially the type with clutch mechanisms requires more frequent maintenance than a traditional type transfer case.
Specialty or Exotic transfer case fluid is something you need to be aware of. In old days transfer cases were simply filled with gear oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Some mechanics never got the memo from the transfer case manufacturer. We see the wrong fluid in transfer cases daily. Sometimes we catch it when it is already too late and someone has to buy a new transfer case. You need to be aware as a consumer that you are working with a knowledgeable Mesa, AZ repair shop. We can all look the same and sound the same. Even doctors have been known to amputate the wrong limb from time to time.
Mesa
Simply put, the transfer case in a four-wheel drive (4WD) or all wheel drive (AWD) vehicle is the component which allows the engine power to be directed to all four tires. Transfer cases are generally mounted just outside or next to the transmission. A traditional vehicle generally has a drive shaft that delivers power to just two of the wheels. The transfer case adds and connects a second drive shaft to the second pair of tires.
Transfer Case of Yesterday (Traditional Truck Type)
The transfer case of yesterday is a big, cast iron, crude, heavy gear box that bolted on the back of the transmission that used a set of gears to connect the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft. They were generally controlled by a large shifter sticking out of the floor board and you also manually locked the hubs at both front wheels. You shifted into four wheel drive only on an as need basis. In older four wheel drives traditionally the rear wheels were the primary drive tires and the front wheel only came on board when you went through this ritual.
Modern Transfer Case of Today (Automatic Engaging Truck Type)
The modern transfer case is much lighter, built of generally aluminum or magnesium. They use a chain to connect the front and the rear drive shafts in the more common truck type configuration where the rear wheels are the primary source of delivering power to the pavement. What is significantly different is the methods of control and the addition of an electrically controlled clutch. No longer do you need to go through the ritual listed above, the vehicles computer monitors for wheel slip and when it registers wheel slip, it signals an electric motor mounted on the transfer case which actuates and connects the front and rear drive shafts through a clutching system. This is much easier to operate but does present challenges when it malfunctions. Although it sounds fairly simply, a good portion of our repair industry does not know how to diagnose these issues. The consumer will purchase a replacement transfer case when all they needed was a transfer case actuator motor, control computer, new tires or …. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Modern Transfer Case (Manual Engaging Truck Type)
Much like described above, with the exception of the transfer case not utilizing a clutching mechanism and engagement manually happening through a button or shift lever. Much like people preferring a “land line” over a cell phone, we find some people prefer the manual type operation where they feel some control. Maybe this is because it seems more objective or concrete in it operation. Either way, both have pros and cons and it is simply personal preference.
Modern Transfer Case (Full Time All Wheel Drive, Car or Front Wheel Drive SUV)
Quickly becoming very common since more SUV are moving to front wheel drive and more cars are utilizing all wheel drive. Different from both of the above, this is where the primary source of placing power to the pavement is through the front wheels and the rear wheels are secondary. The transfer case is generally much smaller and has no clutching mechanism. The manufacturer of the vehicle has generally moved the clutching mechanism in most cases to the rear differential. The transfer case in this application is mounted to either the right or the left side of the transmission between the drive axle and the front wheel. Sitting by itself, it looks more like a differential than a transfer case but is still described as a transfer case because of its function. Like the other automatic engaging transfer cases, tire replacement should happen as a complete set of four tires unlike the two at a time people are accustomed to. We see customers daily that have to buy a new transfer case because they did not follow this rule. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Traditional Type)
- Difficulty Shifting Into Different Ranges (4-Low, 4-High, 2wd)
- Noisy In All Gears
- Jumps Out of 4-Low Range or 4-High Range
- Fluid Leaking From Vent or Seals
- “Service four wheel drive light” (usually yellow)
- Vehicle goes completely into neutral while just driving
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Automatic Engaging Type)
- Binding sensation when turning
- Popping noises on acceleration either in a turn or in a straight line
- “Service four wheel drive light” or “all wheel drive light” or “traction control light”
- Vehicle completely goes into neutral while just driving
A frequent transmission miss-diagnosis worth mention is the transmission is rebuilt or replaced, when simply a purse strap got caught on the transfer case shifter pulling the transfer case into neutral when exiting the vehicle. We see this one from time to time. This usually happens to an inexperienced transmission technician and they only figure it out after they have rebuilt or replaced your transmission. The honest one will tell you, the dishonest will simply shift the transfer case back into gear and you get a transmission you didn’t need.
Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!!
The transfer case almost always gets forgotten. People say, “I never use the four wheel drive, what does it need maintenance for?” This is a wives' tale. The transfer case is always rotating and has power or torque going through it. This is regardless or not if you use the four wheel drive. Transfer cases are expensive and you definitely don’t want to buy one because transfer case services are relatively cheap. They usually hold less than two quarts of oil.
The transfer case fluid level & condition should be checked at every regular oil change to make sure it also has plenty lubricant (this is very important, transfer cases hold so little fluid they will run out, even if you never saw a puddle on the ground.
The modern transfer case, especially the type with clutch mechanisms requires more frequent maintenance than a traditional type transfer case.
Specialty or Exotic transfer case fluid is something you need to be aware of. In old days transfer cases were simply filled with gear oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Some mechanics never got the memo from the transfer case manufacturer. We see the wrong fluid in transfer cases daily. Sometimes we catch it when it is already too late and someone has to buy a new transfer case. You need to be aware as a consumer that you are working with a knowledgeable Paradise Valley, AZ repair shop. We can all look the same and sound the same. Even doctors have been known to amputate the wrong limb from time to time.
Simply put, the transfer case in a four-wheel drive (4WD) or all wheel drive (AWD) vehicle is the component which allows the engine power to be directed to all four tires. Transfer cases are generally mounted just outside or next to the transmission. A traditional vehicle generally has a drive shaft that delivers power to just two of the wheels. The transfer case adds and connects a second drive shaft to the second pair of tires.
Transfer Case of Yesterday (Traditional Truck Type)
The transfer case of yesterday is a big, cast iron, crude, heavy gear box that bolted on the back of the transmission that used a set of gears to connect the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft. They were generally controlled by a large shifter sticking out of the floor board and you also manually locked the hubs at both front wheels. You shifted into four wheel drive only on an as need basis. In older four wheel drives traditionally the rear wheels were the primary drive tires and the front wheel only came on board when you went through this ritual.
Modern Transfer Case of Today (Automatic Engaging Truck Type)
The modern transfer case is much lighter, built of generally aluminum or magnesium. They use a chain to connect the front and the rear drive shafts in the more common truck type configuration where the rear wheels are the primary source of delivering power to the pavement. What is significantly different is the methods of control and the addition of an electrically controlled clutch. No longer do you need to go through the ritual listed above, the vehicles computer monitors for wheel slip and when it registers wheel slip, it signals an electric motor mounted on the transfer case which actuates and connects the front and rear drive shafts through a clutching system. This is much easier to operate but does present challenges when it malfunctions. Although it sounds fairly simply, a good portion of our repair industry does not know how to diagnose these issues. The consumer will purchase a replacement transfer case when all they needed was a transfer case actuator motor, control computer, new tires or …. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Modern Transfer Case (Manual Engaging Truck Type)
Much like described above, with the exception of the transfer case not utilizing a clutching mechanism and engagement manually happening through a button or shift lever. Much like people preferring a “land line” over a cell phone, we find some people prefer the manual type operation where they feel some control. Maybe this is because it seems more objective or concrete in it operation. Either way, both have pros and cons and it is simply personal preference.
Modern Transfer Case (Full Time All Wheel Drive, Car or Front Wheel Drive SUV)
Quickly becoming very common since more SUV are moving to front wheel drive and more cars are utilizing all wheel drive. Different from both of the above, this is where the primary source of placing power to the pavement is through the front wheels and the rear wheels are secondary. The transfer case is generally much smaller and has no clutching mechanism. The manufacturer of the vehicle has generally moved the clutching mechanism in most cases to the rear differential. The transfer case in this application is mounted to either the right or the left side of the transmission between the drive axle and the front wheel. Sitting by itself, it looks more like a differential than a transfer case but is still described as a transfer case because of its function. Like the other automatic engaging transfer cases, tire replacement should happen as a complete set of four tires unlike the two at a time people are accustomed to. We see customers daily that have to buy a new transfer case because they did not follow this rule. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Traditional Type)
- Difficulty Shifting Into Different Ranges (4-Low, 4-High, 2wd)
- Noisy In All Gears
- Jumps Out of 4-Low Range or 4-High Range
- Fluid Leaking From Vent or Seals
- “Service four wheel drive light” (usually yellow)
- Vehicle goes completely into neutral while just driving
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Automatic Engaging Type)
- Binding sensation when turning
- Popping noises on acceleration either in a turn or in a straight line
- “Service four wheel drive light” or “all wheel drive light” or “traction control light”
- Vehicle completely goes into neutral while just driving
A frequent transmission miss-diagnosis worth mention is the transmission is rebuilt or replaced, when simply a purse strap got caught on the transfer case shifter pulling the transfer case into neutral when exiting the vehicle. We see this one from time to time. This usually happens to an inexperienced transmission technician and they only figure it out after they have rebuilt or replaced your transmission. The honest one will tell you, the dishonest will simply shift the transfer case back into gear and you get a transmission you didn’t need.
Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!!
The transfer case almost always gets forgotten. People say, “I never use the four wheel drive, what does it need maintenance for?” This is a wives' tale. The transfer case is always rotating and has power or torque going through it. This is regardless or not if you use the four wheel drive. Transfer cases are expensive and you definitely don’t want to buy one because transfer case services are relatively cheap. They usually hold less than two quarts of oil.
The transfer case fluid level & condition should be checked at every regular oil change to make sure it also has plenty lubricant (this is very important, transfer cases hold so little fluid they will run out, even if you never saw a puddle on the ground.
The modern transfer case, especially the type with clutch mechanisms requires more frequent maintenance than a traditional type transfer case.
Specialty or Exotic transfer case fluid is something you need to be aware of. In old days transfer cases were simply filled with gear oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Some mechanics never got the memo from the transfer case manufacturer. We see the wrong fluid in transfer cases daily. Sometimes we catch it when it is already too late and someone has to buy a new transfer case. You need to be aware as a consumer that you are working with a knowledgeable Ahwatukee, AZ repair shop. We can all look the same and sound the same. Even doctors have been known to amputate the wrong limb from time to time.
Simply put, the transfer case in a four-wheel drive (4WD) or all wheel drive (AWD) vehicle is the component which allows the engine power to be directed to all four tires. Transfer cases are generally mounted just outside or next to the transmission. A traditional vehicle generally has a drive shaft that delivers power to just two of the wheels. The transfer case adds and connects a second drive shaft to the second pair of tires.
Transfer Case of Yesterday (Traditional Truck Type)
The transfer case of yesterday is a big, cast iron, crude, heavy gear box that bolted on the back of the transmission that used a set of gears to connect the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft. They were generally controlled by a large shifter sticking out of the floor board and you also manually locked the hubs at both front wheels. You shifted into four wheel drive only on an as need basis. In older four wheel drives traditionally the rear wheels were the primary drive tires and the front wheel only came on board when you went through this ritual.
Modern Transfer Case of Today (Automatic Engaging Truck Type)
The modern transfer case is much lighter, built of generally aluminum or magnesium. They use a chain to connect the front and the rear drive shafts in the more common truck type configuration where the rear wheels are the primary source of delivering power to the pavement. What is significantly different is the methods of control and the addition of an electrically controlled clutch. No longer do you need to go through the ritual listed above, the vehicles computer monitors for wheel slip and when it registers wheel slip, it signals an electric motor mounted on the transfer case which actuates and connects the front and rear drive shafts through a clutching system. This is much easier to operate but does present challenges when it malfunctions. Although it sounds fairly simply, a good portion of our repair industry does not know how to diagnose these issues. The consumer will purchase a replacement transfer case when all they needed was a transfer case actuator motor, control computer, new tires or …. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Modern Transfer Case (Manual Engaging Truck Type)
Much like described above, with the exception of the transfer case not utilizing a clutching mechanism and engagement manually happening through a button or shift lever. Much like people preferring a “land line” over a cell phone, we find some people prefer the manual type operation where they feel some control. Maybe this is because it seems more objective or concrete in it operation. Either way, both have pros and cons and it is simply personal preference.
Modern Transfer Case (Full Time All Wheel Drive, Car or Front Wheel Drive SUV)
Quickly becoming very common since more SUV are moving to front wheel drive and more cars are utilizing all wheel drive. Different from both of the above, this is where the primary source of placing power to the pavement is through the front wheels and the rear wheels are secondary. The transfer case is generally much smaller and has no clutching mechanism. The manufacturer of the vehicle has generally moved the clutching mechanism in most cases to the rear differential. The transfer case in this application is mounted to either the right or the left side of the transmission between the drive axle and the front wheel. Sitting by itself, it looks more like a differential than a transfer case but is still described as a transfer case because of its function. Like the other automatic engaging transfer cases, tire replacement should happen as a complete set of four tires unlike the two at a time people are accustomed to. We see customers daily that have to buy a new transfer case because they did not follow this rule. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Traditional Type)
- Difficulty Shifting Into Different Ranges (4-Low, 4-High, 2wd)
- Noisy In All Gears
- Jumps Out of 4-Low Range or 4-High Range
- Fluid Leaking From Vent or Seals
- “Service four wheel drive light” (usually yellow)
- Vehicle goes completely into neutral while just driving
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Automatic Engaging Type)
- Binding sensation when turning
- Popping noises on acceleration either in a turn or in a straight line
- “Service four wheel drive light” or “all wheel drive light” or “traction control light”
- Vehicle completely goes into neutral while just driving
A frequent transmission miss-diagnosis worth mention is the transmission is rebuilt or replaced, when simply a purse strap got caught on the transfer case shifter pulling the transfer case into neutral when exiting the vehicle. We see this one from time to time. This usually happens to an inexperienced transmission technician and they only figure it out after they have rebuilt or replaced your transmission. The honest one will tell you, the dishonest will simply shift the transfer case back into gear and you get a transmission you didn’t need.
Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!!
The transfer case almost always gets forgotten. People say, “I never use the four wheel drive, what does it need maintenance for?” This is a wives' tale. The transfer case is always rotating and has power or torque going through it. This is regardless or not if you use the four wheel drive. Transfer cases are expensive and you definitely don’t want to buy one because transfer case services are relatively cheap. They usually hold less than two quarts of oil.
The transfer case fluid level & condition should be checked at every regular oil change to make sure it also has plenty lubricant (this is very important, transfer cases hold so little fluid they will run out, even if you never saw a puddle on the ground.
The modern transfer case, especially the type with clutch mechanisms requires more frequent maintenance than a traditional type transfer case.
Specialty or Exotic transfer case fluid is something you need to be aware of. In old days transfer cases were simply filled with gear oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Some mechanics never got the memo from the transfer case manufacturer. We see the wrong fluid in transfer cases daily. Sometimes we catch it when it is already too late and someone has to buy a new transfer case. You need to be aware as a consumer that you are working with a knowledgeable Scottsdale, AZ repair shop. We can all look the same and sound the same. Even doctors have been known to amputate the wrong limb from time to time.
Clutches are normally associated with a manual transmission. However, they are not actually integral to the inner workings of the manual transmission. Clutches are simply the connection point between the engine and the transmission. When you push the clutch in you are breaking this connection between the engine & transmission. When you let the clutch out, you are reconnecting the engine to the transmission. The reconnection from a stop has to happen in a modulated way, as not to stall the engine.
Clutches generally fail in one of two functions: their ability to engage (pedal out, primary position) or their ability to disengage (pedal depressed). Either of these two failure don’t necessitate you need a major or complete clutch replacement but often times a minimally clutch repair and/or maintenance is all that needs to happen.
Signs Your Clutch is Not Fully Engaging or Engaging At All:
- When accelerating, the speed of the vehicle does not seem to follow engine RPM proportionally.
- Burning smell
- Drop in gas mileage
- Extremely soft clutch pedal
- Car does not want to move at all when letting out the clutch
Signs That Your Clutch is Not Fully Disengaging or Disengaging At All:
- Difficulty shifting from gear to gear (usually effects all gear changes)
- Grinding or scraping noise between gears
- Although getting into reverse is generally more difficult, when a clutch is not disengaging fully, reverse can become next to impossible
Other Signs a Clutch Issue Might Be Present:
- Chattering or jerking sensation when releasing the clutch pedal
- Crunching noises or a “hard” clutch pedal
- General tip for shifting into reverse: always move the shifter to a forward gear before moving to reverse.
Styles of Clutch Control:
- Hydraulic Type: Operates much like a brake system. There is a clutch master cylinder (connected to the clutch pedal), clutch slave cylinder (connected to the clutch fork) & hydraulic lines that connect the two. Hydraulic tends to be the most common we see from vehicle manufacturers. It is more common in later model or newer model vehicles.
- Cable Type: Simply put, a cable connects the clutch pedal to the clutch fork. The next most common type used by automobile manufacturers.
- Linkage Type: Uses a series of rods and pivot points to connect the clutch pedal to the clutch fork. Less commonly or hardly used any more, it is generally associated with older vehicles. Linkage types tend to wear out, need repair and frequent adjustment.
All three styles generally have some sort of adjustment that can be performed. As simple as they seem to operate, we see a considerable amount of people that get a major transmission replacement or a major clutch repair, when all they needed was a minor clutch adjustment or repair.
What to do When You Need a Major Clutch Replacement:
Most mechanics in Chandler, AZ will tell you they are happy to replace your clutch, but do they do them every day? Their operation of a clutch seems simple to most, but that’s just the problem. Technicians are guilty of overlooking simple small details that make a clutch last long and operate great. Things like the right type of grease used on the clutch splines or replacing a scared bearing retainer on the front of the transmission. Another one that gets missed is a damaged transmission input shaft at the pilot bearing race surface. Why don’t some mechanics address this? It's easier to replace the clutch when you don’t know how to work with the insides of the transmission.
Clutch Buzz Words:
Clutch Fork: Lever or leverage at the clutch that is used to compress the group of extremely strong springs in the pressure plate. They can wear out specifically at the pivot point or get damaged when a clutch release bearing goes bad. They should be inspected for possibilities of needing to be replaced with any major clutch repair were the transmission is removed.
Clutch Fork Pivot Ball: The pivot point for the clutch fork. Replacement of this ball should almost always be considered with any major clutch repair were the transmission is removed. Small detail, but some miss it.
Bearing Retainer: The bearing retainer is the piece or guide track that the release bearing rides on between clutch engagement and clutch disengagement. It is either mounted or integral to the front of the transmission. They often get overlooked or neglected with major clutch replacement were the transmission is removed because it’s an extra detail that slows the technician down. It is imperative that the surface of the bearing retainer is not damaged, scared or worn down for clutch smoothness and clutch longevity.
Release Bearing (a.k.a. throw-Out Bearing): The release bearing is sandwiched between the clutch fork & clutch pressure plate. There are different styles of release bearings. The release bearing is a failure point and should be replaced
Pilot Bearing: Fits in the back of the engine’s crank shaft, supporting the input shaft in the transmission. Hands down, this is another failure point and should be replaced with any major clutch repair were the transmission has to be removed.
Clutch Disc: This is the actual friction material in the clutch assembly. It is an item that does wear out, much like a brake pad. It’s also the reason some people get more mileage out of there clutch than others. It comes down to driver habits and technique.
Pressure Plate: Mounted to the engines flywheel it’s what compresses on the clutch disc to engage or disengage the clutch. These are almost always replaced with any major clutch repair were the transmission is removed.
Flywheel: Mounted to the engine crankshaft this is where the clutch disc rides. Much like a brake rotor, it must be machined with a proper clutch replacement. Again, another area were some like to skip or cut corners. Flywheel machine is imperative.
Dual Mass Flywheel: Becoming more common. This type of flywheel is built in two parts connected by a spring mechanism. Because of its construction they are either un-machine able and/or difficult to machine. Created for creature comfort in the vehicle, they do add considerable expense to a clutch replacement.
Clutch Master Cylinder: Much like a brake master cylinder, it is directly connected to the clutch pedal and sends hydraulic pressure to the clutch slave cylinder down at the clutch. When replacing clutch master cylinders, we often recommend they are replaced in combination with the slave cylinder. Not always necessary, but a best practice for a solid repair.
Clutch Slave Cylinder: Much like a brake wheel cylinder, its directly connected to the clutch fork or throw out bearing. When replacing clutch slave cylinders, we often recommend they are replaced in combination with the clutch master cylinder. This is not always necessary, but a best practice for the ideal repair.
Clutch Pedal Travel: The window of distance between the floor board and where the clutch pedal rests without your foot on the pedal. Typically there should almost be 1” of free travel when just starting to push the clutch in before you feel resistance and there should be 1” to 2” of room before the floorboard when the clutch is disengaged. As a clutch wears, the measurements change if not adjusted. a worn clutch will be right at the top of this window. Some types of clutches are self adjusting for this wear, while others aren’t.
Simply put, the transfer case in a four-wheel drive (4WD) or all wheel drive (AWD) vehicle is the component which allows the engine power to be directed to all four tires. Transfer cases are generally mounted just outside or next to the transmission. A traditional vehicle generally has a drive shaft that delivers power to just two of the wheels. The transfer case adds and connects a second drive shaft to the second pair of tires.
Transfer Case of Yesterday (Traditional Truck Type)
The transfer case of yesterday is a big, cast iron, crude, heavy gear box that bolted on the back of the transmission that used a set of gears to connect the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft. They were generally controlled by a large shifter sticking out of the floor board and you also manually locked the hubs at both front wheels. You shifted into four wheel drive only on an as need basis. In older four wheel drives traditionally the rear wheels were the primary drive tires and the front wheel only came on board when you went through this ritual.
Modern Transfer Case of Today (Automatic Engaging Truck Type)
The modern transfer case is much lighter, built of generally aluminum or magnesium. They use a chain to connect the front and the rear drive shafts in the more common truck type configuration where the rear wheels are the primary source of delivering power to the pavement. What is significantly different is the methods of control and the addition of an electrically controlled clutch. No longer do you need to go through the ritual listed above, the vehicles computer monitors for wheel slip and when it registers wheel slip, it signals an electric motor mounted on the transfer case which actuates and connects the front and rear drive shafts through a clutching system. This is much easier to operate but does present challenges when it malfunctions. Although it sounds fairly simply, a good portion of our repair industry does not know how to diagnose these issues. The consumer will purchase a replacement transfer case when all they needed was a transfer case actuator motor, control computer, new tires or …. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Modern Transfer Case (Manual Engaging Truck Type)
Much like described above, with the exception of the transfer case not utilizing a clutching mechanism and engagement manually happening through a button or shift lever. Much like people preferring a “land line” over a cell phone, we find some people prefer the manual type operation where they feel some control. Maybe this is because it seems more objective or concrete in it operation. Either way, both have pros and cons and it is simply personal preference.
Modern Transfer Case (Full Time All Wheel Drive, Car or Front Wheel Drive SUV)
Quickly becoming very common since more SUV are moving to front wheel drive and more cars are utilizing all wheel drive. Different from both of the above, this is where the primary source of placing power to the pavement is through the front wheels and the rear wheels are secondary. The transfer case is generally much smaller and has no clutching mechanism. The manufacturer of the vehicle has generally moved the clutching mechanism in most cases to the rear differential. The transfer case in this application is mounted to either the right or the left side of the transmission between the drive axle and the front wheel. Sitting by itself, it looks more like a differential than a transfer case but is still described as a transfer case because of its function. Like the other automatic engaging transfer cases, tire replacement should happen as a complete set of four tires unlike the two at a time people are accustomed to. We see customers daily that have to buy a new transfer case because they did not follow this rule. (See article on tire replacement & tire size challenges with automatic engaging all wheel drive systems)
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Traditional Type)
- Difficulty Shifting Into Different Ranges (4-Low, 4-High, 2wd)
- Noisy In All Gears
- Jumps Out of 4-Low Range or 4-High Range
- Fluid Leaking From Vent or Seals
- “Service four wheel drive light” (usually yellow)
- Vehicle goes completely into neutral while just driving
Signs You May Have a Transfer Case Problem (Automatic Engaging Type)
- Binding sensation when turning
- Popping noises on acceleration either in a turn or in a straight line
- “Service four wheel drive light” or “all wheel drive light” or “traction control light”
- Vehicle completely goes into neutral while just driving
A frequent transmission miss-diagnosis worth mention is the transmission is rebuilt or replaced, when simply a purse strap got caught on the transfer case shifter pulling the transfer case into neutral when exiting the vehicle. We see this one from time to time. This usually happens to an inexperienced transmission technician and they only figure it out after they have rebuilt or replaced your transmission. The honest one will tell you, the dishonest will simply shift the transfer case back into gear and you get a transmission you didn’t need.
Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!! - Maintenance!!
The transfer case almost always gets forgotten. People say, “I never use the four wheel drive, what does it need maintenance for?” This is a wives' tale. The transfer case is always rotating and has power or torque going through it. This is regardless or not if you use the four wheel drive. Transfer cases are expensive and you definitely don’t want to buy one because transfer case services are relatively cheap. They usually hold less than two quarts of oil.
The transfer case fluid level & condition should be checked at every regular oil change to make sure it also has plenty lubricant (this is very important, transfer cases hold so little fluid they will run out, even if you never saw a puddle on the ground.
The modern transfer case, especially the type with clutch mechanisms requires more frequent maintenance than a traditional type transfer case.
Specialty or Exotic transfer case fluid is something you need to be aware of. In old days transfer cases were simply filled with gear oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Some mechanics never got the memo from the transfer case manufacturer. We see the wrong fluid in transfer cases daily. Sometimes we catch it when it is already too late and someone has to buy a new transfer case. You need to be aware as a consumer that you are working with a knowledgeable Tempe, AZ repair shop. We can all look the same and sound the same. Even doctors have been known to amputate the wrong limb from time to time.
Tempe
